Phobjikha is a wide, flat-bottomed glacial valley at about 3,000 metres, without the forest cover of the rest of the country — an open bowl of marsh and dwarf bamboo surrounded by hills. It is the most important wintering ground in Bhutan for the black-necked crane, and the valley has organised itself around them.
The cranes
Around three hundred cranes fly in from the Tibetan plateau at the end of October and stay until mid-February. They are a genuinely revered bird here: tradition holds that on arrival they circle the Gangtey monastery three times, and again when they leave.
The clearest evidence of how seriously this is taken is invisible at first glance. When electricity came to Phobjikha, the valley chose to have the power lines buried underground rather than strung on pylons, because cranes collide with cables. It is an expensive decision for a small farming community and it tells you most of what you need to know about the place.
The Black-Necked Crane Information Centre at the valley edge has spotting scopes, a hide and a short film. Viewing is best in the early morning and late afternoon when the birds move between roost and feeding grounds. Do not walk out into the marsh.
Gangtey Goenpa
Gangtey Goenpa, on a spur overlooking the valley, is the largest Nyingma monastery in western Bhutan, founded in the seventeenth century by a grandson of Pema Lingpa. It was extensively restored over a decade using traditional craft after beetle damage to its timbers, and the woodwork inside is exceptional.
The nature trail
The Gangtey Nature Trail is the best short walk in the country for effort against reward: about ninety minutes downhill from the monastery, through pine forest and past a small village, out into the open valley floor. It is nearly flat at the end and requires no particular fitness.
When to go and what to expect
Come between late October and February if you want the cranes; the annual Black-Necked Crane Festival is held at Gangtey on 11 November, with masked dances and children performing crane dances. Outside that window the valley is still beautiful but empty of its main attraction.
Be warned that it is cold. At 3,000 metres, in an open valley, in winter, with limited heating in the farmhouses and small lodges — bring far more warm clothing than you think you need. Several homestays operate here, and staying in one, with a wood stove and a bukhari, is the most memorable night many visitors have in Bhutan.